This morning, we drove to Castletownbeare and visited two art galleries. We spent time in both, choosing a piece of art to write about. There are wonderful artists here in Beara and art is honoured. (I’ve got a first draft of one poem done already, and the second is beginning to take form on the computer. I always get first drafts done on paper, scribblings really, and then find things look more clear on screen and paper.)
This afternoon, Pippa and I walked forty-five minutes from Anam Cara, through Eyeries, and down a country lane to find the infamous Mary Maddison, who is legend of sorts here in West Cork. She is a wise woman, a seer, a stone reader, and a story teller. She has a wonderful front garden unlike any I’ve ever seen before. There are small ponies, chickens, hens, one turkey (!), and three peacocks. As well, she has created a tiny church that sits on the front hill made entirely of sea shells. There is even stained glass in its windows! She loves The Blessed Mother, as she calls Mary, and makes reference to her in all of her conversations. Down beside the house, there are little pools and ponds, which she’s made and covered in sea shells. As well, little faery statues are rooted in the cement, so the entire property is covered with little angels and faeries. The world which she has created here is almost shamanic.
You walk into her kitchen, filled with wonderful whimsical Irish chairs that have backs that lift up into curly horse tails of iron and wood. The view out the kitchen window is of peacocks strutting and tiny horses eating birdseed! She’s the kindest and loveliest person I’ve met here.
Pippa went first. Then it was my turn.
Mary asked me to take off my shoes and socks and put my bare feet into a huge basin filled with small stones and crystals. My feet stayed in there the entire time! Then she asked me to take another bowl, filled with beautiful stones and crystals and shells. I was to pick out six rows of seven stones and lay them across a tray. Then, at the end, I was to pick out two key stones that she would explain last. (As anyone who reads this blog knows, I am already drawn to stones in strange ways, so rubbing them and holding them, to find the ‘right’ ones was a delight.) Once that was done, she began to read them row by row. Each row was representative of a month. “This first row,” she said, “is what will happen between the 8th of August (today) and the 8th of September, and so on down the rows.” She then explained what each stone represented and where it had originated, which was fascinating on its own. Some came from India, some from North America, some from the sea here.
What I found most interesting was that she wove in Catholic references throughout the entire reading. “This stone tells me that you’ll have a blessing from the Holy Mother in October.” When she got to December, she mentioned St. Germain. (I asked her if she knew him, and she said no. I said I didn’t know him either, but that I probably should as I am Catholic. My Irish grandmother gave me a book of saints when I was little, so I’ll be sure to look him up when I get home next week!) I asked her if she was Catholic. She said yes, and then told me that priests and nuns come to see her often for stone readings, which I found interesting. I’m sure they don’t publicize the fact that they visit a wise woman on Beara!
She said my boat will come in during September, which is curious. (I was pretty sure my boat came in this month because of this wonderful trip!) Then, she shut her eyes and said that Mum and Dad were speaking to her. You have to picture a little woman with pure white hair, an Irish face with bright eyes and a lovely laugh. You have to imagine a white house dress edged with bright blue irises and a pair of lovely floral slippers on her feet. While her eyes are shut, you lean forward as if you could hear them too if you listen carefully enough, your feet steeped in a bowl of stones and Irish sea shells, and watch as she chuckles and nods to someone you can’t see or hear. It’s eerie and at the same time a bit sacred in a very ancient way.
Suddenly, she made me crack up. “Your father says why are you so worried about getting a man? You have plenty of time yet!” She laughed so hard. Then she said, “Sure, there are lots of men around you. Do you just not like the look of them? Maybe you’re not sending out the right signals!” She was hysterical. “Two are coming in December! If it was closer to the time, I could tell you more about them, based on their birth stones! Listen, just call me and I’ll tell you when it’s time. Your boat’s coming in, girl, your boat’s coming in!”
I had taken my Claddagh ring off before the reading, as well as my Celtic spiral ring, so she wouldn’t know I had any Irish link, but she soon shut her eyes and asked: “Is there an Irish connection through your mother’s family?” Soon she was rattling off names and telling me to do reseach on the Co. Clare side of the family. “Your people’s still there, girl….they were farmers and great musicians. It’s in the DNA! Do you sing?” So I admitted that I love to sing Irish songs and she nodded confidently. “It’s in the DNA.”
After she’d read through the rows of stones, she bent down to my feet. Strange experience, indeed! First, she looked at the stones on top of my feet. Similar sorts of stones indicated certain things. “This stone tells me that God hears your prayers. He listens to you, and so does the Blessed Mother!” Then, she had me lift my feet and looked at my soles. Another series of questions and answers followed.
Too soon, the half hour stone reading was over. It was wonderfully raw. I’ve never met a woman who obviously loves God, but who is rooted in the Celtic pagan spirituality as well. She is well renowned in Ireland as a story teller. “Sure, I’ll tell stories to anyone who will listen.”
People here are complex. They live in tidy houses, with tidy gardens, off small narrow lanes. They live with sheep and tiny horses and giant cows that moo. They live now, but are so rooted in the past. There is no distinction, it seems, when you are connected, through this landscape to your family’s past.
The wise woman who lives on the edge of Eyeries, down a narrow lane that divides fields of cows and sheep, is timeless. She lives today, but she walks between worlds and times.
I hope to meet her again someday soon.
peace,
k.
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